Both are real gold; the difference is the alloy. 14K is 58.5% gold, 18K is 75%. The rest is other metals that change hardness and colour.
Colour
18K yellow gold is visibly richer — deeper, warmer, closer to the “old gold” people picture. 14K yellow is paler and slightly greener. In rose gold, 18K reads pinker because there is more gold and less copper relative to the total.
Hardness and wear
14K is harder and more scratch-resistant. On a ring worn daily, 18K shows micro-scratches sooner, especially on a polished flat band. That is not damage — it is patina, and it can be polished out — but it means an 18K ring looks “worn in” faster.
Prongs and setting work
14K holds prongs better. 18K prongs are softer and can be bent more easily; on a large stone we sometimes recommend 14K or platinum for the head even when the band is 18K. A mixed-karat ring is normal in bespoke work as long as it is disclosed.
Price
18K costs more because it contains more gold. On a 4 mm band the difference is noticeable; on a thin band it is smaller than the difference between white and yellow finishes at retail.
Allergies
Neither is hypoallergenic by definition — the alloy matters. Nickel in white gold is the usual culprit; 18K white gold often contains less nickel than 14K, but not always. If you have a nickel allergy, ask for nickel-free white gold or platinum.
What we recommend
- Daily-wear engagement ring: 14K for durability, 18K if the colour is the point and you accept polishing.
- Wedding band: 14K or platinum. A wide 18K band collects scratches.
- Statement or occasional piece: 18K, for the colour.
We quote both, with the gram weight, so the difference is visible. Request a quote →
The people who cut the stones and set the rings. We publish what we can verify on our own bench, and link to the certificate or the guide when a number needs a source.
