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HOLYCOME Fine jewelry · since 2008

Custom Design

CAD vs hand-carved wax: which custom process fits your ring?

Wax models and casting equipment on a jeweller’s bench

Two ways to get from an idea to a cast ring. They produce different things well, and the right answer depends on what the design depends on.

What CAD does well

  • Symmetry and repeatability. A CAD model can be mirrored exactly — useful for matched bands, pairs of earrings and anything with a specific stone seat.
  • Fast revision. Changing a band from 2 mm to 2.4 mm takes minutes, not a new carving.
  • Stone-fit accuracy. The seat is cut to the stone's measured dimensions, so the girdle clearance is known before casting.
  • Records. The file can be re-used for a replacement or a resize years later.

What hand-carving does well

  • Organic form. Twisted, floral and sculptural shapes can look stiff when modelled mathematically and alive when carved.
  • Touch. A carver works by feel; small asymmetries read as handmade rather than as errors.
  • One-offs. For a single piece with no repeat need, carving can be faster than building a clean model.

Where each goes wrong

CAD fails when the model is geometrically correct but visually wrong: prongs too thick, gallery too tall, halo too wide. That is a taste problem, and it is caught by rendering in context — on a hand, at the right scale — not by more precision.

Hand-carving fails when the design needs repetition. Two “matching” carved bands rarely match to the tenth of a millimetre, and a stone seat carved by eye can be off enough to require re-cutting after cast.

The hybrid most workshops actually use

Model the structural parts in CAD — seat, gallery, band profile, stone positions — then hand-finish the surface after casting: carve the milgrain, refine the curves, texture the shoulders. You get accuracy where it matters and character where it shows.

What to ask a supplier

  • Can I see the model with dimensions, not just a render?
  • Is the seat cut to my stone's measurements?
  • What happens if the first cast is wrong — who pays?
  • Do I get the file, or only the ring?

We model in CAD and finish by hand, and the render comes with dimensions before anything is cast. Start a design →

Holycome design studio
Holycome Design Studio Wuzhou, Guangxi · writing since 2008

The people who cut the stones and set the rings. We publish what we can verify on our own bench, and link to the certificate or the guide when a number needs a source.

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