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HOLYCOME Fine jewelry · since 2008
Metal guide: 925 silver, 9K–18K gold and platinum

Metal guide: 925 silver, 9K–18K gold and platinum

What each metal actually is, how it wears, and where the money goes.

Metal is the cheapest part of most rings and the most consequential for how they feel after a year. Here is what each one is.

925 sterling silver

92.5% silver, 7.5% copper and other metals. The copper makes it workable but also makes it tarnish — the dark film is silver sulphide, not dirt, and it comes back. Silver is soft: at 2 mm wide it distorts; at 2.5 mm with a proper thickness it is fine for daily wear. It is the right choice for a first ring, a fashion piece, or a design you want to test before committing to gold.

9K, 14K and 18K gold

  • 9K (37.5% gold) — harder, paler, cheaper. Common in the UK and Australia; less so in the US.
  • 14K (58.5% gold) — the US default. Good hardness, good colour, wears well in daily use.
  • 18K (75% gold) — richer colour, softer, scratches more visibly. The choice when colour matters more than scratch resistance.

White gold is alloyed with white metals and plated with rhodium for brightness. The plating wears at friction points and is re-applied every 12–24 months on a daily-wear ring. Unplated white gold has a warmer, slightly grey tone that some people prefer.

Rose gold gets its colour from copper. The higher the copper, the redder the tone; 14K rose is the usual balance.

PT950 platinum

95% platinum, 5% other platinum-group metals. Denser than gold — the same ring feels noticeably heavier — and it does not tarnish. Platinum scratches by displacing metal rather than losing it, so it develops a patina instead of wearing thin. It costs more per gram and is harder to work, which shows up in the labour line.

Plating and “gold filled”

Gold-plated silver has a micrometre-scale layer of gold over silver; it wears through at the shank first. “Gold filled” is a thicker mechanical bond and lasts longer, but it is still not solid gold. If a listing does not say “solid” or give a karat stamp, assume plating.

What we use

925 silver with white or yellow gold finish, solid 9K/14K/18K gold, and PT950 platinum. The metal is stated on every quote, with the gram weight, so you can compare like for like. See designs →

Last updated November 5, 2026. Something out of date or unclear? Tell us — we correct these pages.

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